Lolita Fashion is a Japanese fashion inspired by Victorian-era clothing and styles from the rococo period. It grew from young women’s desire to dress for themselves in a way that disregarded men’s opinions. The style is characterized by a distinctive silhouette, achieved from wearing petticoats underneath dresses or skirts with a specific cut.
What is Lolita fashion?
Lolita is a fashion subculture inspired by Victorian porcelain dolls. The trend started in Japan in the 1980s and quickly became popular in the UK and United States. Lolita promotes the aesthetic of cuteness. A typical Lolita costume usually consists of a lace blouse with a knee-long, voluminous skirt or a dress with a crinoline or petticoat underneath. Another fashion staple is a frilly bonnet with ribbons. Throw on a pair of bow shoes with knee or ankle socks – and the look is complete!
It is a street fashion originating from Japan typically associated with the Harajuku neighborhood in Tokyo. The fashion has evolved and changed over time but continues to be a celebration of femininity, modesty, cuteness, and beauty that does not fit into mainstream fashion trends. As a style, Lolita is different from other Japanese girl-centric street fashions because it draws from Western history, fairy tales, and children’s literature, creating a unique sense of cute.
In addition, there is a focus on new clothes by Japanese designers as opposed to styling with vintage clothing from abroad. Nowadays you can find Lolitas, or people who wear Lolita fashion, in many major cities around the world. Though Japanese designers remain important in defining the fashion, there are designers in Korea, China, North America, and Europe working within the Lolita aesthetic.
Is Lolita fashion related to the 1958 novel Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov or the film directed by Stanley Kubrick in 1962?
The simple answer is no, not at all. Here is a more complex answer: On hearing the word Lolita, many English speakers tend to think about the film or novel and thus make an association to the sexual and erotic aspects of these works. Many people who wear this fashion in North America are often asked if “Lolita fashion” is in any way sexual. Even when told it is in no way connected to the novel or the film, the cultural association is so strong that some have a difficult time processing this information.
It is important to remember that the novel is told from the perspective of Humbert Humbert. Dolores does not have voice—the reader does not know her thoughts or feelings. Humbert tells the story, Humbert is the one who sexualizes Dolores when he calls her Lolita and a nymphet. Prior to the novel, Lolita was the nickname for Dolores and did not have the nymphet connotations.
During a conversation I had with Nagisa, a Japanese Lolita from Osaka, we talked about the differences between Lolicon, Japanese for “Lolita complex” or the sexualization of young girls, and Lolita fashion, a youthful street style worn mostly by women. The “Lolita” in these two different concepts are considered unrelated and are defined and approached differently by men and women.
The “Lolita” in Lolicon is defined by male gaze and desire that is directed toward prepubescent girls. Men project their sexual desire upon Lolita, wanting to take advantage of and control her. In contrast, for women Lolita fashion exists as a domain removed from the sphere of cis-male influence. Lolita has agency, feelings, and power. She is a reminder of a woman’s own precious childhood memories growing up as a girl.
Actually, there are quite a number of Japanese Lolitas who do not know about the Nabokov novel. I remember explaining it to someone and she was completely disgusted.
Lolita is a modest style. Lolitas dress for themselves. It is clothing that reminds us that not everything has to do with trying to attract or please men.
What are the basic elements of a Lolita outfit?
A bell-shaped or A-line skirt supported by a petticoat or pannier and worn with bloomers. A blouse under a jumper-skirt with over-the-knee socks or tights, rounded-toe shoes, and a hair bow, beret, or headdress. Dresses are expensive because of the high-quality lace and fabric with intricate construction and details. Some people sew their own dresses or accentuate their outfits with handmade accessories. Also, nerves of steel are a plus as it’s tough going out there dressed in something so eye-catching, especially when alone!
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